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Mon, 15-Mar-2010 Path: /
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Feature: Norway's South Coast - The coolest Riviera? Print E-mail
ImageThe title question is poised by a British journalist who has spent a week at Soerlandet, the South Coast of Norway. 'It may not have many sandy beaches, but the coast of Norway offers sophistication and stunning scenery,' the journalist writes. The title question is poised by a British journalist who has spent a week at Soerlandet, the South Coast of Norway. 'It may not have many sandy beaches, but the coast of Norway offers sophistication and stunning scenery,' the journalist writes. Siobhan Mulholland, writing for the Independent starts out by pointing out that 'Norway is officially the best place in the world to live, according to the UN. And although only one in 400 British people visit the place each year  representing just 125,000 visitors  it is also pretty good for a holiday. -I have just returned from a week on the Norwegian Riviera. The term 'Riviera' conjures up images of a society playground with flashy yachts and ostentatious wealth, which is not something I expected to find along the Skagerrak Coast.' 'Most of us only know the country for its postcard image of skiing, snow-covered mountains, western fjord cruises and alternative knitwear,' Mulholland writes. And goes on: ' Few venture down the country's east coast for their summer holidays. Which is great for the tiny number who do  because the stretch of south-eastern coastline from the Kragero down to Mandal is one of Scandinavia's best-kept secrets. Scenically it is stunning: mile upon mile of tiny rocky islands and skerries, hidden bays and coves, white clapboard houses and clear glistening fjords, all set against a backdrop of lush green forests and lakes.' What the journalist finds most striking is the uniformity of this coastline  not just its geography, but also its architecture. He finds that nowhere is the view marred by a huge hotel or high-rise apartment block. Instead you find slight variations on one theme: the Norwegian summer house, made of wood, with a red-tiled roof, windows overlooking the water and in just three colours  white, terracotta and a mustardish yellow. This is where Norway's urban dwellers stay during their holidays. It's their second home, or belongs to a relation, or is rented from a friend, he writes. The journalist has apparently visited all the historic and picturesque coastal towns of Risor, Tvedestrand, Arendal, Grimstad and Lillesand. He writes: 'It's astonishing how well preserved these former timber ports and shipbuilding centres are, with their narrow streets of white buildings, picket fences and rose gardens, leading down to harbour areas flanked by shops and restaurants. Draconian building restrictions allow few opportunities to experiment with this architectural tradition. The Norwegians are fiercely proud of their heritage and fear its loss; you also feel that anything brash is anathema to this nation's psyche. -The best place to see this picture-postcard heritage is in Lyngor, which is made up of four islands. If you look at photographs taken at the beginning of the last century and compare them to today, Lyngor appears eerily the same; only the boats moored to the jetties have changed. The determination of these islands to maintain their local character is impressive  they are car-free and only accessible by boat. Any outsiders who want to buy property here must pay a hefty premium  and prove they intend to live in the house for most of the year.' The journalist finds that people here are masters at exploiting even the briefest moment of sunshine. But he allows that sun in this part of Europe does come at a price  which is probably the main reason why so few foreigners seek it here. Most things cost more here  taxes are high and much is imported into this sparsely populated nation of just over four million people. But, in Mulholland's opinion, the elemental beauty of the Skagerrak Coast is well worth saving for. It's great for cycling, walking, fishing and sailing, very child-friendly, and clean and safe. 'Riviera' is an apt way of describing parts of it: there are yachts, wealthy visitors, exclusive residences  but they're all on display in a typically understated Norwegian way. It's possibly the best place to go on holiday in the world, Siobhan Mulholland from the British newspaper the Independent concludes. (The Independent) Edited from the original by Rolleiv Solholm
 



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